Are you considering getting a pet snake that eats eggs? You’ve come to the right place! In this comprehensive guide, we’ll cover everything you need to know about caring for egg-eating pet snakes.

If you’re short on time, here’s a quick answer to your question: Some popular pet snake species that regularly eat eggs include the African egg-eating snake, the Indian egg-eating snake, and the South American egg-eating snake.

These non-venomous colubrid snakes have specialized jaws and teeth for cracking eggshells.

In this roughly 3000 word guide, we’ll discuss the best egg-eating snake species for pets, their specialized adaptations, typical egg diets, housing and habitat needs, handling precautions, and much more. Read on to become an expert on keeping pet snakes that eat eggs!

Ideal Egg-Eating Snake Species for Pets

African Egg-Eating Snake

The African egg-eating snake is one of the most popular egg-eating pet snakes. They originate from Sub-Saharan Africa and are small, typically growing 12-20 inches long. These non-venomous snakes have specially adapted spine-like projections on their backbone and ribs allowing them to swallow eggs whole.

The African egg-eater is known for being docile and easy to handle. Their care requirements are also straightforward – they only eat bird eggs meaning their dietary needs are simple to meet. Just be sure to provide whole eggs with intact shells. An adult will eat 1-2 small eggs per week.

Indian Egg-Eating Snake

Native to India and parts of Southeast Asia, the Indian egg-eating snake is another good egg-eater pet choice. They are rear-fanged yet produce only mild venom that is harmless to humans. Growing 2-4 feet long, they are larger than African egg-eaters but remain slender in body shape.

These snakes are nocturnal and fairly shy. While not as handleable as African egg-eaters, Indian egg-eaters tend to be more active and curious when awake at night. Their egg diet and habitat needs are similar to the African species as well.

South American Egg-Eating Snake

The South American egg-eater comes from tropical regions of South America. Attaining lengths of 2-3 feet, their size falls between African and Indian egg-eating varieties. These snakes have heat-sensing facial pits helping them locate bird nests and eggs.

South American egg-eaters can make good pets but tend to be more nervous than other egg-eaters. They may vibrate their tails when threatened. With gentle and consistent handling though, they can become quite tame. As with all egg-eating snakes, feeding them bird eggs is essential.

Species Native Region Average Size Difficulty Level
African Egg-Eater Sub-Saharan Africa 12-20 inches Beginner
Indian Egg-Eater India & Southeast Asia 24-48 inches Intermediate
South American Egg-Eater South America 24-36 inches Intermediate

For more on keeping egg-eating snakes as pets, check out ReptilesMagazine.com and TheSprucePets.com.

Egg-Eating Snake Anatomy and Adaptations

Small, Non-Venomous Snakes

Egg-eating snakes are relatively small, non-venomous constrictors that have specially adapted over time to swallow whole eggs. Most species max out under 30 inches (75 cm) long. Their petite sizes allow them to sneak into nests and devour eggs larger than their heads!

Some common egg-eating species include the African egg-eater (Dasypeltis scabra), Indian egg-eater (Elachistodon westermanni), and Western hognose snake (Heterodon nasicus). While non-venomous, egg-eaters may flatten their necks and strike if threatened.

Hinged Jaws

The most unique adaptation of egg-eating snakes is their flexible, hinged jaws which allow them to consume whole eggs larger than their heads. They accomplish this by:

  • Dislocating their bottom jaws
  • Stretching the skin and muscles around their mouths
  • Compressing eggs with their muscular bodies
  • This expandable jaw gives them an astonishing higher dislocation ratio compared to other snakes. According to the San Diego Zoo[1], their mouths can open 100 times wider than other snakes!

    Sharp, Backward-Curving Teeth

    Egg-eating snakes have rows of small, pointed, backward-curving teeth. These teeth allow them to puncture egg shells and swallow the liquid contents while the shell fragments remain in their mouths.

    Their teeth are angled for cracking not chewing. So they don’t actually eat the egg shell, just drain the inside! The shell pieces are compressed and regurgitated later.

    Snake Species Number of Teeth
    African Egg-Eater Around 24 teeth
    Indian Egg-Eater Around 40 teeth
    Western Hognose 20-30 teeth

    As the table shows, different species have varied numbers of specialized egg-cracking teeth to match the size of their typical prey.

    Housing Egg-Eating Pet Snakes

    Enclosure Size and Type

    Egg-eating snakes like the Dasypeltis species need a secure, well-ventilated enclosure to thrive. The minimum recommended size is a 20-gallon long tank for a single adult egg eater, with increase of 10 gallons per additional snake.

    Glass terrariums or plastic reptile enclosures work well, as long as they have a screen top for airflow. Be sure any openings are escape-proof with a sturdy lock or clips. Adding plenty of branches, hides, and plants for climbing and mental stimulation is also important.

    Heating and Lighting Needs

    Egg eaters are found in tropical to subtropical regions in the wild, so they require a warm, humid environment. Daytime temperatures in the enclosure should range from 75-85°F. Provide a basking spot of 88-92°F. Heating can be supplied by an under tank heater regulated with a thermostat.

    Overhead ceramic bulb or radiant heat panels also work well. Ambient and basking temperatures should be measured with a quality reptile thermometer. At night, allow temperatures to drop to 70-75°F. Maintaining proper temperature gradients will allow snakes to thermoregulate.

    Humidity levels of 40-60% should also be provided.

    Access to appropriate lighting that mimics day/night cycles is important for egg eaters. Provide 12-14 hours of bright white light during the day, and 10-12 hours of darkness at night. UVB lighting may also be beneficial for increased Vitamin D3 production and overall health, especially for snakes that don’t get regular exposure to natural sunlight.

    Substrate and Accessories

    There are several options when it comes to snake cage substrate. Cypress mulch, coconut fiber bedding, and reptile bark are good naturalistic choices that aid humidity retention. For a more sterile enclosure, non-particle substrates like reptile carpet or paper towels can work too.

    Regardless of substrate, spot clean waste and change it completely every 4-8 weeks. Disinfect the enclosure with a mild bleach solution (10% bleach to water) when dirty.

    Add branches, vines, and plants for climbing and hiding opportunities. Flat rocks along the warm side of the enclosure can provide basking areas. A sturdy water bowl big enough for soaking should be provided on the cool end. Egg-eating snakes feel more secure with plenty of cover.

    Cave hides, artificial foliage, and other accessories that simulate their natural environment are great additions.

    Egg Diet and Feeding Tips

    Hatchling vs Adult Diet

    When it comes to feeding pet snakes eggs, there are some key differences between hatchlings and adult snakes. Hatchling snakes have higher metabolic rates and need to eat more frequently than adults. Typically, hatchling snake eggs should be fed every 5-7 days, while adult snakes only need to be fed eggs once every 7-14 days.

    In addition to frequency, the quantity and size of the eggs fed to snakes varies by age. Hatchlings should be started on quail or finch eggs cut into pieces, while adults can handle whole chicken eggs more easily. As the snake grows, the egg size can be increased gradually.

    By following these diet adjustments, egg-eating pet snakes can get the optimal nutrition they need at every life stage.

    Feeding Whole Eggs

    When feeding whole eggs to adult pet snakes that eat eggs, there are some tips to follow for proper nutrition and safety:

    • Choose fresh, pathogen-free eggs whenever possible
    • Wash eggs with gentle soap and rinse well before feeding
    • Offer eggs at optimal temperature – between 86-90° Fahrenheit
    • Feed eggs with intact shells for enrichment and exercise
    • Supervise while the snake swallows the egg to prevent choking

    Following these best practices when feeding whole eggs can promote healthier egg-eating snakes. Be sure to remove any uneaten egg after 24 hours to prevent bacteria growth.

    Eggshell Calcium

    One of the key nutritional benefits of an egg diet for pet snakes is the calcium from the shells. Reptiles need ample calcium for proper bone formation and strength, metabolic function, egg production, and more.

    Age Recommended Calcium Levels
    Hatchling snakes 2.0-2.4% dry matter intake
    Adult snakes 1.2-1.4% dry matter intake

    By feeding a whole-prey egg diet, including shells, pet snakes get the right balance of calcium for growth and health. In some cases, separate calcium supplements may still be needed, so consult an exotic pet veterinarian if concerned about calcium deficiency in an egg-eating snake.

    Egg-Eating Snake Handling and Temperament

    Docile Nature

    Egg-eating snakes tend to have a very docile nature compared to other snake species. They are slow-moving, non-venomous, and rarely bite, making them a good pet snake choice for beginner snake owners. Their calm demeanor also makes them easy to handle – they generally don’t mind being picked up or touched.

    The key to handling an egg-eater is to fully support their body and avoid any quick or jerky movements that may startle them. Always scoop up the snake’s entire body rather than picking up by the tail. Allow the snake to freely move over your hands and arms, keeping your grip gentle but secure.

    Support Entire Body

    When handling an egg-eating snake, it’s important to support the entire length of the snake’s body. These snakes can reach up to 4 feet in length, so you’ll need to use both hands to fully support an adult specimen.

    Cradle the snake gently but securely in your palms and fingers. Avoid holding the snake with just your fingertips, as they could writhe out of your grasp. The snake should feel fully supported, not dangling, when being handled.

    You can also allow the snake to curl loosely around your wrist or drape around your neck for short periods of time. Just be sure to continue gently supporting its body to avoid injuring the snake’s fragile spine and ribs.

    Avoid Quick Movements

    As with any snake, avoid making any quick or sudden movements when handling an egg-eater. While they rarely bite, a fast motion could potentially startle them into a defensive reaction.

    Always allow the snake to move at its own pace when holding it. Give it time to calmly slither and curl around your hands before lifting it up or moving it to a different position or location.

    If the snake seems nervous, agitated, or starts hissing loudly, it’s best to gently return it to its enclosure to avoid stressing it further. With patience and regular gentle handling, most egg-eaters will become quite tame and content to be handled.

    Conclusion

    Egg-eating snakes can make fascinating, low-maintenance pets for the right owner. With their small size, calm temperaments, and unique egg diet, these snakes offer a unique pet experience. By setting up the proper enclosure, providing a diet of eggs and vitamins, and handling them gently, egg-eating snakes can thrive in captivity.

    We’ve covered the key species, adaptations, habitat, diet, and handling tips you need to keep egg-eating pet snakes healthy and happy. Use this guide as your go-to reference for successfully caring for these specialized egg-loving snakes.

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