Reptiles That Can Live Comfortably In A 40 Gallon Tank

Reptile keeping is an increasingly popular hobby that allows reptile enthusiasts to care for amazing creatures in the comfort of their own homes. If you’re looking to house reptiles and have a 40 gallon tank ready, you may be wondering what reptiles could live comfortably inside.

Read on as we dive into the diverse world of reptiles and discuss 8 great options for your 40 gallon enclosure.

If you’re short on time, here’s a quick answer: Smaller species like leopard geckos, crested geckos, and garter snakes can thrive in a 40 gallon tank.

Leopard Geckos

Basic Care Requirements

Leopard geckos are one of the most popular pet lizards due to their calm nature, small size, and low maintenance requirements. Some basic care guidelines include:

• Enclosure Temperature: 88-92°F on the warm side, and 70-75°F on the cool side.
• Lighting: No special UVB lighting needed. Provide a 12 hour light/dark cycle.
• Substrate: Paper towels or reptile carpets work well. Avoid loose substrates like sand.
• Humidity: Arid species preferring 30-40% humidity.
• Feeding: Insects like crickets, mealworms, waxworms. Dust feeder insects with calcium/vitamin D3 supplement.
• Water: Provide fresh water in a small shallow bowl, changed daily.
• Habitat: Include warm hide, cool hide, and humid hide with damp moss for shedding.

With proper basic care and habitat setup, leopard geckos can live 10-20 years in captivity.

Ideal Tank Setup

For an adult leopard gecko, a 40 gallon tank, 36 x 18 x 16 inches, makes an ideal enclosure size. This provides enough room for a proper temperature gradient and habitat décor without being too large.

Use a under tank heating mat on one side to create a 88-92°F warm spot. No additional overhead heating is required. At the cool end, room temperature around 70-75°F is fine.

The tank should have a substrate like paper towels, textured reptile carpet, or slate tiles. Provide ample hides – one warm, one cool, and one humid. Add branches, cork bark, and plants for climbing and exploration.

Having the proper temperature gradient and hides allows leopard geckos to thermoregulate comfortably.

Finding Healthy Leopard Geckos

When bringing home a new leopard gecko, choose captive bred specimens from reputable breeders. Avoid wild caught animals which tend to be stressed and have heavy parasite loads.

Look for bright, alert geckos with no signs of stuck shed skin. Body and tail should be well filled out. Check for any missing toes or tail tip.

Quarantine new geckos for at least 30-45 days to watch for parasites before introducing to existing collections. Have fecal tests done during quarantine as well.

With good basic care and tank setup, leopard geckos are fairly easy to keep reptiles that can thrive for over 10-20 years in captivity. Their calm demeanor and wide range of morphs make them popular display pets.

Crested Geckos

Humidity and Temperature Needs

Crested geckos originate from the tropical forests of New Caledonia where humidity levels tend to stay around 70-80% year-round. They do best when the humidity in their vivarium is kept between 50-60%.

Use a hygrometer to monitor humidity and adjust as needed by misting the enclosure once or twice per day.

Ideal temperatures for a crested gecko enclosure range from 73°F to the mid 80s during the day, with a drop into the low 70s or upper 60s at night. Use an under tank heater on one side of the tank to create a temperature gradient and allow your gecko to thermoregulate by moving between the warmer and cooler areas as needed.

Enclosure Setups for Cresties

A 40 gallon breeder tank provides plenty of room for an adult crested gecko to climb and explore. Fill the tank with vines, cork bark tubes, and artificial foliage to provide ample climbing and hiding opportunities.

Be sure any artificial plants are crested gecko-safe with no sharp edges or toxic chemicals.

A naturalistic vivarium setup with a planted bioactive substrate, live plants, springtails, and isopods can help maintain ideal humidity levels. Otherwise, use paper towel, reptile carpet, or a loose substrate like eco earth as the tank flooring.

Avoid using sand, as crested geckos can accidentally ingest it when hunting live prey.

Mesh screening on top of the tank allows for adequate ventilation. If the tank will be housing baby crested geckos, use fiberglass window screening to ensure they cannot squeeze through the openings and escape.

Important Dietary Considerations

In captivity, crested geckos thrive when offered a powdered complete diet like Repashy or Pangea mixed with water. They likely get most of their hydration from their food, so this ready-made “crested gecko smoothie” ensures they get the moisture and nutrition they need.

You can also supplement with live insects like crickets and dubia roaches a few times per week. Feeder insects should be gut loaded with nutritious foods beforehand. Light dusting of plain calcium powder supplements 2-3 feedings per week provides additional calcium to aid bone and egg development.

Always provide clean, dechlorinated drinking water in a small dish as well, replaced daily. Some cresties enjoy nectaring – try mixing a bit of pure fruit baby food with water to offer variety!

By following these basic husbandry guidelines on temperature, humidity, housing, and diet, your crested gecko can thrive for many years in a 40 gallon terrarium habitat!

Sources:

• Josh’s Frogs Crested Gecko Care
• Reptile Guide – Crested Gecko

Garter Snakes

Garter snakes make excellent reptile pets that can thrive in a 40 gallon enclosure. These colubrids come in a variety of color morphs and stay relatively small, maxing out around 4 feet on average for some of the larger species like the common garter snake (Thamnophis sirtalis).

Their moderate size, calm demeanor, ease of care and longevity make them a popular choice for first-time and experienced herpetoculturists alike.

Garter Snake Species

There are around 30 different garter snake species, most of which make good captives. The four most commonly kept are:

• Common garter snake – Very hardy, easy to care for and come in a myriad of color variations. Can be housed comfortably in a 40 gallon.
• California red-sided garter snake – Slightly smaller than common garters with vibrant red stripes. A 40 gallon is perfect.
• Checkered garter snake – Smaller species that tops out around 2 feet long. A 20 gallon may suffice for an adult.
• Ribbon snake – Slender brown snakes that remain under 3 feet in most cases. Better suited to a 20-30 gallon enclosure.

Feeding and Housing

Garter snakes eat a variety of small prey items like fish, frogs, toads, slugs, worms, rodents and lizards. Captive garters will readily accept frozen-thawed rodents like pinky mice, fuzzies and small adult mice.

Provide an appropriately sized water bowl for soaking and obtain a 40 gallon breeder tank which offers more floor space over height.

These colubrid snakes are terrestrial, so maximizing floor space is more important than height for their enclosures. Good substrates include non-aromatic wood shavings, coconut fiber and cypress mulch. Add branches, rocks, logs or plants for ample climbing and hiding opportunities.

A small hide box gives added security.

Create a thermal gradient with an under tank heating pad covering 1/3 of the tank floor and an overhead dome fixture or ceramic heat emitter for ambient temperatures. Ideal temps range from 75-80 F on the cool end and 85-90 F on the warm end. Nighttime temps can safely drop into the 70s.

Taming Your Garter Snake

Garter snakes seldom bite, but may initially be nervous and defensive. Gentle, deliberate handling sessions help them become accustomed to their caretakers. Always support their body weight when picking them up rather than grabbing at their middle, and never handle them for at least a day after feeding to avoid regurgitation issues.

To bond with your snake, slowly and calmly allow it to slide through your hands, keeping the motions predictable rather than sudden. Consistent daily handling of 10-15 minutes is ideal. Use positive reinforcement by offering a small treat like a fish chunk when they remain relaxed.

Once accustomed to you, most garter snakes will not strike or musk in self defense.

Milk Snakes

Milk Snake Size

Milk snakes are a moderately sized snake species. On average, they reach lengths of 3-5 feet when fully grown. Some of the larger subspecies and morphs can potentially reach up to 6 feet. Generally, female milk snakes tend to be slightly larger than males of the same age.

When hatched, baby milk snakes are tiny – just 8-15 inches long. But they grow quickly when cared for properly. You can expect them to reach 2 feet long within their first year. Their rapid growth rate when young means you’ll need to size up their enclosure several times as they mature.

Ideal Habitat Parameters

In the wild, milk snakes occupy a diverse range of habitats across North and Central America. But there are some key elements to create an ideal enclosure for a pet milk snake:

• Enclosure size – An adult will need a 40 gallon tank or equivalent sized enclosure.
• Substrate – Aspen shavings, cypress mulch or coconut fiber bedding that supports burrowing.
• Hiding places – Multiple snug hides across the warm and cool end.
• Temperature gradient – Warm end at 80-85°F, cool end around 75°F.
• Humidity – 40-60% humidity is ideal, with a humid hide box available.
• Water bowl – Clean filtered water always available for drinking and soaking.
• Climbing branches – Milk snakes are semi-arboreal and appreciate climbing opportunities.

Getting this habitat right goes a long way towards keeping your milk snake healthy and thriving in captivity.

Common Health Issues

Milk snakes are quite hardy, but they can develop certain health problems if their needs aren’t fully met. Here are some common milk snake conditions to look out for:

• Respiratory infections – Caused by cool, damp enclosures. Symptoms are wheezing, mucus bubbles, and gaping mouth.
• Mites – Tiny external parasites that lead to skin irritation. Visible as tiny dark dots moving on body.
• Scale rot – Bacterial or fungal skin infection. Causes swollen, crusty scales.
• Mouth rot – Bacterial infection of mouth lining, causing cheesy deposits and reddened tissue.

The good news is that most health issues can be cleared up if diagnosed and treated early by an exotic vet. Prevention through proper husbandry is key to keeping milk snakes robust.

Corn Snakes

Corn Snake Morphs

Corn snakes come in a spectacular array of colors and patterns known as morphs. Some popular morphs include:

• Albino – Lacking black pigment and appearing white or yellow
• Amelanistic – Lacking black pigment and appearing red, orange or yellow
• Anerythristic (Anery) – Lacking red pigment and appearing black, gray or silver
• Lavender – A combination of amelanistic and anerythristic genetics
• Snow – Amelanistic corn snakes with increased white pigmentation
• Ghost – Hypoamelanistic, lacking dark pigment
• Candy Cane – Red and white striped appearance
• Creamsicle – Vivid orange and cream coloration

There are countless stunning corn snake color and pattern mutations to choose from. Morphs differ in appearance but share the docile temperament and care requirements of classic corn snakes.

Heating and Lighting Necessities

Proper heating is essential for corn snakes to digest food, maintain metabolism and remain active. The enclosure should have a hot side around 88-92°F and a cooler side from 75-80°F. This temperature gradient allows snakes to thermoregulate by moving between warmer and cooler areas as needed.

Heating can be provided by an under tank heating pad on the hot side. Overhead heating lamps or ceramic heat emitters can also be used to warm the enclosure. Accurate thermometers are important for monitoring temperatures.

Although corn snakes are primarily nocturnal, a low wattage incandescent bulb or fluorescent UVB light on a 12 hour on/off cycle can provide a day/night cycle. Full spectrum lighting is not required but can be beneficial in moderation.

Feeding Your Corn Snake

Young corn snakes can be fed pinky mice once every 5-7 days. Most adult corn snakes will thrive on a rodent meal equal to about 1.5 times the snake’s width once every 7-10 days.

It’s best to feed pre-killed frozen-thawed rodents warmed to above room temperature. Live prey risks injuring snakes and should be avoided.

Provide a bowl of clean water at all times, changing it 2-3 times per week. Adult corn snakes only need to drink occasionally but the water aids in humidity.

A healthy corn snake is alert and active with clear eyes, no discharge or retained eyecaps and a strong feeding response. Proper housing, heating, feeding and handling will lead to a long, problem-free life.

Sand Boas

Sand Boa Species

There are several species of sand boas that make excellent pets for reptile enthusiasts. Some of the most popular include:

• Kenyan Sand Boa (Eryx colubrinus) – One of the most common pet species, known for their small size (2-3 feet as adults) and docile temperament.
• Rosy Sand Boa (Eryx johnii) – Another small species (2-3 feet) with a beautiful pink or orange coloration. Native to parts of India and Pakistan.
• Rainbow Sand Boa (Eryx conicus) – A medium-sized sand boa (3-4 feet) with a striking iridescent sheen. Native to Iran and Iraq.
• Arabian Sand Boa (Eryx jayakari) – The largest sand boa species, reaching up to 5 feet. Found across the Arabian Peninsula.

Sand boas are nonvenomous, constricting snakes that thrive in hot, arid environments. Their small size, calm demeanor, and simple care requirements make them a popular pet for novice and experienced herpetoculturists alike.

Sand Boa Housing

Despite their small size, sand boas still require adequate housing to thrive. A 40 gallon tank is sufficient for most adult sand boas. The tank should have a secured screen top and latching doors. Substrates like aspen shavings, reptile carpet, or play sand work well, with a hide box on both the warm and cool side of the tank.

Maintain a thermal gradient from around 75°F on the cool side to 85-90°F on the warm side.

Sand boas primarily live underground in burrows, so providing multiple hiding opportunities is essential. Artificial plants, cork rounds, driftwood, rocks, and other decor can all be used. A secure water bowl should also be available at all times, though high humidity is not required.

For hatchlings or young juveniles, a 20 gallon tank or large plastic tub can be used temporarily until the snake is large enough for an adult enclosure. Proper housing is crucial for these snakes’ health and well-being in captivity.

Sand Boa Temperament

One of the reasons sand boas make such excellent pets is their calm, docile temperament. They rarely bite or exhibit defensive behaviors. Well-socialized individuals will tolerate gentle handling without issue.

Slow-moving and secretive, sand boas spend much of their time buried under the substrate or curled up in hides. They are primarily crepuscular or nocturnal. When disturbed during the day, they may burrow deeper rather than strike or flee.

Regular handling when young acclimates sand boas to interactions. With a predictable, non-defensive nature, even novice reptile keepers can confidently work with these small, charming snakes.

African Fat-Tailed Geckos

Captive Care Challenges

African fat-tailed geckos, scientific name Hemitheconyx caudicinctus, are delightful little lizards that make great pets. However, caring for these reptiles in captivity does come with some challenges. Two of the main difficulties are getting the temperature and humidity right in their habitat.

Since fat-tails come from arid, desert-like environments, too much humidity can lead to respiratory infections. On the other hand, insufficient heating can suppress their immune system and cause digestive issues.

Thankfully, with proper fat-tail habitat construction and planning, keepers can meet the needs of these charming geckos. The key is setting up a thermal gradient – cooler on one end and warmer on the other – so they can self-regulate.

Fat-Tail Habitat Construction

A 40 gallon tank provides ample space for an adult fat-tail or pair. Use a substrate like orchid bark or a 70/30 soil/sand mix. Include a warm, dry hide on the hot end and a cooler, humid one on the opposite. The cooler hide helps fat-tails shed their skin properly.

Place a heat mat under one side of the tank hooked to a thermostat. This creates a thermal gradient from around 75°F to the low 90s°F.

Be sure to include branches, cork tubes, and plants for enrichment. Live plants help increase humidity slightly while providing mental stimulation. The tank setup should mimic the gecko’s native habitat as much as possible.

Feeding Fat-Tails

In captivity, fat-tailed geckos will thrive on a varied diet of insects and occasional plant matter. Crickets, mealworms, waxworms, and dubia roaches make excellent feeders. Dust prey items with calcium + D3 and multivitamin supplements once a week each to prevent nutritional deficiencies.

Adults will eat 3-5 prey items 2-3 times per week. Use shallow dishes for water and food to prevent spillage and mold.

Occasionally offer treats like hornworms, silkworms, or zoophobas. Plant matter isn’t a large component of their diet, but occasional bits of greens, veggies, and some fruits provide variety.

Bearded Dragons

Bearded Dragon Growth Rate

Bearded dragons grow rapidly during the first 12-18 months of life. Newly hatched dragons are just 4-6 inches long but can grow over 20 inches as adults. On average, most bearded dragons grow to about 18-24 inches in length.

Their growth rate depends on factors like genetics, diet, housing conditions and health.

During the first 3 months, bearded dragon babies can grow 1-2 inches per month. Their growth slows down as they mature, adding just a half inch or less per month once they reach adulthood at about 18 months old.

Providing proper husbandry, nutrition and veterinary care will ensure your dragon reaches its maximum growth potential.

Bearded Dragon Caging

A 40 gallon tank is sufficient to house an adult bearded dragon comfortably. The minimum recommended enclosure size for one adult dragon is 36″ x 18″ x 18″, which a 40 gallon “breeder” style tank meets. Some key factors for proper bearded dragon caging include:

• Tank floor space for exercising
• Climbing branches, platforms and hiding spots
• Proper lighting, heating and substrate
• Adequate ventilation

Glass tanks allow for easy viewing and temperature regulation. Provide a substrate like reptile carpet or calcium sand. Add climbing branches, artificial foliage, hide boxes and hammocks for enrichment. Keep the tank in an area free from drafts, direct sunlight and noise.

Ideal Lighting and Heating

Because bearded dragons are cold-blooded, lighting and heating is vital for their health. They require:

• Basking spot temperature: 95-110°F
• Cool end temperature: 70-90°F
• Nighttime temperature: Less than 75°F
• UVB lighting: critical for calcium metabolism and vitamin D3 synthesis
• Photoperiod: 14 hours on, 10 hours off

Use under tank heating pads, ceramic heat emitters, and incandescent bulbs to maintain proper thermal gradients. Reptile-specific linear UVB bulbs should stretch across 1/2 to 2/3 of the enclosure length. Regulate all lighting/heating with a thermostat and timer.

Conclusion

In conclusion, a 40 gallon tank provides enough space for a variety of small reptile species to thrive. Leopard geckos, crested geckos, and various species of small snakes and lizards can live full, enriching lives in a tank of this size when proper heating, lighting, substrate, and decorations are provided.

Focus on selecting a reptile suited for novice keepers and research the specific care requirements of any species you are considering. With adequate research and preparation, a 40 gallon tank can be an ideal habitat for raising healthy, fascinating reptiles.