Is your bearded dragon darting around its enclosure like it’s being chased? This frantic behavior can seem worrisome at first glance, but don’t panic – there are a few potential reasons for your hyperactive reptile friend.
If you’re short on time, here’s a quick answer to your question: Your bearded dragon may be running around due to stress, inadequate housing conditions, illness, or simply getting ready to lay eggs. Proper husbandry, habitat set up, routine health checks, and learning your dragon’s body language are key to figuring out the cause.
In this comprehensive article, we’ll explore in detail the top causes of a bearded dragon zooming laps around its tank and how to help your overactive buddy calm down.
Stress as a Cause of Hyperactivity
Bearded dragons can become hyperactive and exhibit frantic behavior for a variety of reasons. Stress is one of the most common causes of a beardie running around like crazy. Here are some of the main stressors that can lead to hyperactivity:
Relocation Stress
Bearded dragons are creatures of habit and dislike change. Something as simple as moving their enclosure to a different part of the room can be stressful. Dramatic changes like moving homes or going to a new owner can be incredibly disruptive and cause hyperactivity.
Symptoms usually resolve within a few weeks as the beardie adjusts.
Incorrect Temperature or Lighting
Bearded dragons require very specific temperatures and lighting to thrive. Basking areas should be 95-110°F and the cool side around 80°F. They also need 10-12 hours of UVB light per day. If their environment is too cold, too hot, too bright, or too dark, it can cause major stress.
Frantic running is a sign they are desperately trying to find a comfortable temperature and lighting level.
Tank Mate Aggression
While some dragons cohabitate successfully, mixing lizards in an enclosure can lead to bullying and intimidation. A subordinate dragon may become fearful and hypervigilant, darting around whenever the dominant beardie approaches. Solitary housing resolves this stressor.
Excessive Handling
Frequent and prolonged handling can stress out bearded dragons, especially in their juvenile stages. Babies and juveniles thrive on routine and familiarity. Too much unpredictable interaction can make them skittish and prone to bouts of frantic activity. Limit handling to about 10-15 minutes per day.
Shedding Difficulties
Most shedding goes smoothly but inadequate humidity can cause skin to stick and fail to shed properly. The discomfort of retained eyecaps, foot skin, or other patches can cause major stress. Running around is instinctual behavior to rub off the irritated skin.
Address hydration and humidity to resolve stuck shed issues.
Improper Housing Conditions
Too Small of an Enclosure
One of the most common reasons bearded dragons zoom around their enclosures is because they are simply too small. Bearded dragons are active reptiles that need sufficient space to move around comfortably.
An adult bearded dragon should have a minimum enclosure size of 4ft x 2ft x 2ft (120cm x 60cm x 60cm). Anything smaller than this can cause stress and restlessness.
When housed in cramped quarters, bearded dragons do not have enough room to properly thermoregulate, exercise, and perform natural behaviors like digging and climbing. This pent up energy can result in frequent glass surfing, pacing, and erratic sprinting as they desperately try to find an escape.
Providing an adequately sized habitat allows room for a proper temperature gradient, climbing branches, and enrichment. With their needs comfortably met, bearded dragons are much less likely to exhibit frantic energy bursts.
Lack of Proper UVB Lighting
Bearded dragons are native to the harsh, sun-drenched deserts of Australia. As such, they have evolved to thrive under intense UVB rays which facilitate vitamin D3 production and calcium metabolism. Without UVB exposure, they are prone to developing metabolic bone disease which causes muscle spasms, tremors, and seizures.
Symptoms of metabolic bone disease like twitching and tremors can appear similar to a bearded dragon sprinting around for no reason. Checking UVB output with a solar meter can determine if an old or improperly positioned bulb is to blame.
UVB bulbs should be replaced every 6 months as their beneficial rays decline over time. They should also overlap the basking zone to allow for proper exposure. Ensuring your dragon has access to healthy UVB prevents nutrient deficiencies that manifest in erratic movements.
Not Enough Hiding Spots and Climbing Areas
Despite their intimidating spikes, bearded dragons are actually quite sensitive creatures. In the wild, they rely on rocky crevices, vegetation, and burrows to retreat and feel secure. An enclosure lacking sufficient hides and climbing branches can quickly stress them out.
When a bearded dragon dashing about seems to have nervous energy, it often indicates they feel exposed without refuge. Adding extra hides throughout the tank allows them to calmly survey their territory knowing a safe spot is nearby.
Climbing branches, platforms, and hammocks also provide environmental enrichment to expend energy. The more vertical space and textures to explore, the less likely they are to channel that curiosity into floor sprints.
Ensuring their habitat offers areas to comfortably perch at all levels can satisfy a bearded dragon’s instinct to climb and reduce neurotic running.
Illness
Parasites
Bearded dragons can suffer from a variety of internal and external parasites, which can make them act erratically and run around their enclosure. Common parasites include pinworms, coccidia, giardia, and mites. Pinworms are tiny white worms that live in a dragon’s intestines and cause irritation.
Coccidia are single-celled protozoan parasites that infect the intestinal tract. Giardia is a microscopic parasite that causes digestive issues. Mites are small external parasites that live on the skin and cause intense itching and discomfort.
Parasitic infections are generally caused by poor hygiene and sanitation. They can be diagnosed through fecal exams and microscopic analysis. Infections are treated with antibiotic or anti-parasitic medications prescribed by a veterinarian.
Prevention involves keeping the habitat clean, disinfecting surfaces, and avoiding contamination between animals.[1]
Metabolic Bone Disease
Metabolic bone disease (MBD) is another common cause of abnormal hyperactivity in bearded dragons. MBD is caused by improper calcium metabolism, often due to deficiencies in vitamin D3 or calcium. It leads to weak and brittle bones, muscle twitching, and pain.
Dragons with MBD will run around their tank frantically trying to find a comfortable position to relieve their discomfort.
MBD is easily prevented through proper supplementation of calcium and vitamin D3. But once a dragon is diagnosed, treatment becomes more difficult. Severe MBD requires calcium injections, dietary changes, UV light therapy, and pain medication under veterinary supervision.
Mild cases can sometimes be reversed through diligent care and husbandry improvements at home.[2]
Respiratory Infection
Respiratory infections are common in pet reptiles and can definitely cause odd behavioral changes. Symptoms include wheezing, breathing with an open mouth, and nasal/ocular discharge. Respiratory infections are caused by viruses, bacteria, or fungi.
Bearded dragons with respiratory infections will often run frantically around their enclosure, trying to get more oxygen into their lungs. They may also bob their head repeatedly in an effort to breathe better. In severe cases, the mouth may gap open and the dragon will appear lethargic or collapsed.
Respiratory infections require prompt veterinary care. Most involve antibiotic treatment, nebulization therapy, and supportive care. Preventing respiratory disease involves maintaining proper temperatures and humidity in the habitat, as well as good sanitation and nutrition.
Quarantining new dragons is also recommended to avoid contagious pathogens spreading between animals.[3]
Gravid Female Behaviors
Pacing and Burrowing Before Egg Laying
When a female bearded dragon is gravid (pregnant), she will display some distinct behaviors in preparation for laying her clutch of eggs. One common behavior is restless pacing around her enclosure, almost appearing as if she is patrolling for the perfect egg laying spot.
She may spend hours walking around, climbing over branches, digging test holes, and just acting rather antsy in general. This agitated behavior is due to her maternal instincts kicking in to ensure the survival of her offspring.
Gravid dragons will also engage extensively in burrowing activities by digging holes throughout the enclosure prior to egg laying. In the wild, female bearded dragons will dig holes in soft sandy soil up to 2 feet deep to create a suitable nesting site that maintains proper incubation temperatures.
The dragging of their bellies along the ground further packs down the substrate. In captivity, they will frantically scratch and dig at cage furnishings, plants, bark strips, etc. If suitable laying substrate is not provided, stressed digging may even cause damaged nails and skin abrasions on her snout and feet pads.
Owners can provide a proper laying bin filled with play sand and organic top soil to give a gravid dragon a habitat area sized minimum 2 square feet by 1 foot deep for nesting. Overall, the incessant pacing and burrowing right before laying eggs are clear confirmation behaviors that egg deposition will occur very soon.
Tips for Calming an Overactive Bearded Dragon
Provide Proper Lighting and Temps
One of the most common reasons for a hyperactive bearded dragon is improper lighting and temperatures in their enclosure. Bearded dragons are cold-blooded reptiles that rely on external heat sources to regulate their body temperature.
They become stressed and extra active when their environment is too cold or too hot. Here are some tips for providing optimal lighting and temps:
- Use a reptile-specific heating lamp over one side of the tank to create a warm basking area of 95-100°F. This gives them a place to warm up when needed.
- Maintain the cool side of the enclosure in the 80-85°F range. Thermostats help regulate temperatures.
- Provide 10-12 hours per day of bright, unfiltered UVB lighting for healthy calcium metabolism and activity levels.
- At night, allow temps to drop into the 70s as bearded dragons need a cooler period to sleep well. Turn off overhead lights at night.
- Use digital thermometers on both the cool and warm sides to monitor temperatures. Adjust as needed.
Ensuring your bearded dragon has a proper day and nighttime temperature gradient will help keep their activity patterns normal and healthy.
Increase Enclosure Size
An enclosure that is too small can also cause a bearded dragon to run around like crazy. These reptiles are active creatures that need adequate space to roam around, climb, and exhibit natural behaviors. Here are some tips:
- Adult bearded dragons need a minimum enclosure size of 40-50 gallons long.
- Juveniles can start in a 20-30 gallon tank but will quickly outgrow smaller sizes.
- Bigger is always better! A 4’x2’x2′ or larger enclosure is ideal for most adult beardies.
- Custom wood cages allow for more space than glass aquariums.
Giving your hyperactive beardie a larger habitat provides room to run around and more opportunities to climb, dig, and feel secure.
Add More Hides and Climbing Elements
Inadequate enrichment in an enclosure can also lead to restless behavior in bearded dragons. They are intelligent reptiles that need mental stimulation. Here are some tips:
- Provide 2-3 hiding spots like caves and logs on both the warm and cool sides.
- Add branches, rocks, vines or ledges for climbing and basking.
- Provide a dig box with reptile-safe sand or soil.
- Place plants, leaves, or rocks to create visual barriers and security.
- Vary textures – reptile hammocks, moss, tiles – to keep it interesting.
A dynamic habitat filled with places to hide, climb, dig, and explore will help satisfy an active bearded dragon so they don’t run laps out of boredom or stress.
Handle Gently and Consistently
Frequent yet gentle handling can help calm an anxious or excitable bearded dragon. Try these tips:
- Handle your bearded dragon daily for 10-15 minutes at a time.
- Support their entire body and do not restrict their movements.
- Move slowly and avoid fast, jerky motions that can stress them.
- Pet gently under the chin and down their back in the direction of the scales.
- Reward calm behavior with treats like diced fruit or veggies.
Regular, positive handling sessions establish trust and reassurance. With time, your bearded dragon will learn to settle down and enjoy interactions.
Bring to Exotic Vet if Needed
If adjusting husbandry and handling techniques does not resolve hyperactivity or erratic movements, a veterinary exam may be needed to check for underlying health issues. Signs to watch for include:
- Running in circles or spinning repetitively
- Rubbing or scratching their nose and face excessively
- Head or body tremors
- Lethargy or loss of appetite
- Irregular bowel movements
A qualified reptile vet can run tests to check for parasites, infections, vitamin deficiencies or other problems that could cause abnormal behavior. Addressing any medical issues is important for your bearded dragon’s wellbeing and activity levels.
Conclusion
In summary, bearded dragons are active reptiles, but excessive running and darting around can signal something is amiss. Stress, illness, too-small housing, and gravid female behaviors are common reasons for hyperactivity.
With proper setup, gentle handling, routine vet checks, and learning your dragon’s body language, you can get to the root of the issue.
The good news is that adjusting your husbandry methods and habitat can often help excessive energy calm down. With attentive care and a few easy tweaks, your bearded dragon can go from frantically pacing to relaxation mode, giving you both much-needed peace of mind.
